Alpha Hydrox

Is Alpha Hydrox or any Neoteric Cosmetics' product tested on animals?
Neoteric Cosmetics, Inc. does not conduct nor do we have outside labs do any animal testing on our products.

When should I start using anti-aging products?
The day before yesterday. Seriously, beginning use of anti-aging products as young as 18 has been shown to slow the effects of aging. Of course, the best use of a good daily sunscreen (SPF15 or higher) is the first step in fending off the signs of aging.

Can I use some of my other skin care products while using AHAs?
AHAs are ideal for use with other products since they can enhance or enable the penetration of ingredients into the skin. However, watch for irritation. It is usually best to alternate the application of AHA products, prescription skin products or other anti-aging formulas. This is especially important with products like Retin-A, Renova, Retinol, and some acne control products. Avoid overdoing it – more is not always better.

Can I use self-tanners while using AHAs?
Exfoliating your skin with AHAs prior to using a self-tanner will help make the effects of self-tanners much smoother and more even.

I have been using a product with 5% AHA. What will happen if I start using a higher percentage?
You will most likely have the same experience you had when you started using the lower level AHA.

My skin no longer tingles when I use AHAs. Have they quit working for me?
Lack of tingling does not mean your AHA product has quit working. Once your skin has become accustomed to AHAs, you will notice little (if any) tingling. However, an occasional tingling may reoccur if your skin has been exposed to too much sun or been damaged by wind, excessive environmental pollutants, etc.

What happens if I quit using AHAs?
If you discontinue the use of your AHA product, your skin will slowly revert to its original condition.

Are products that contain AHAs just glorified moisturizers?
Products that contain low percentages of AHA, types of AHAs with large molecular structures and products that have an overall high pH level will act only as a simple moisturizer.

Can I tan outdoors or in a tanning bed while using AHAs?
Your skin is exposed more directly to ultra violet rays in a tanning bed than in the sun, so the damaging effects are worse. Sunscreen is an ABSOLUTE must.

How can I keep my hands looking youthful? 
Hyperpigmentation (brown spots) can be lightened and even completely faded with use of a bleaching cream such as our Spotlight Skin Lightener.  Additionally, nightly use of a vitamin A cream, such as our Retinol ResQ, can help speed up the lightening effects.  Always remember to use a sunscreen SPF15 or higher on your hands to help prevent new spots.

What is the difference in exfoliating with AHAs and using one of the new microdermabrasion systems?
AHAs exfoliate the skin by working low in the stratum corneum, loosening the bonds that hold dead cells on the skin. This stimulates new cell growth, allowing fresh cells to surface without the risk of breaking down small capillaries in the skin and the harshness associated with microdermabrasion. Microdermabrasion is a more aggressive treatment of the skin, yet it removes only the surface dead skin.

Do AHAs thin the skin?
Topically applied alpha hydroxy acids thin the outer stratum corneum (lower layer of skin) making it more compact and flexible. They, however, have been shown to substantially increase the overall thickness of the epidermis (outer layer of skin) which is accompanied by increased collagen production.

Are AHAs irritating to the skin?
AHAs are not simple moisturizers but exfoliants that actually affect a change in the skin to lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tones, etc. Just like many dermatological procedures irritate the skin for a period, AHAs may cause some level of irritation at the onset of use. Glycolic Acid, the most effective in the treatment of aging or sun-damaged skin has the highest level of irritation along with the highest level of results. The AHAs such as Lactic Acid and polyhydroxies that are most commonly used in moisturizers are less irritating. However, due to their larger molecular structure, they penetrate the skin more slowly with significantly slower and less noticeable results.

What is the difference between alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA)?
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) works from the uppermost layer of the skin, dissolving skin layer by layer. AHAs work at the lowermost levels of the stratum corneum. Salicylic Acid, a BHA, is most frequently used in wart removal and acne products.

Will a cleanser containing AHAs be enough to lessen my lines and wrinkles?
Though using a cleanser containing AHAs may temporarily bring a little natural color to your skin and will do a wonderful job preparing skin for the use of an AHA treatment product, rinsing AHAs down the drain will not effect a lasting change in your skin’s condition. In order to do the serious work of improving the skin, AHAs need to be left on.

What are the types of AHAs?
There are several types of AHAs from varying sources:
Glycolic Acid from Sugar Cane, Lactic Acid from Milk , Citric Acid from Citrus Fruits , Tartaric Acid from Grapes, Malic Acid from Apples , Mandelic Acid from Almonds

Who should use AHA treatments?
Products containing AHAs are recommended for those whose skin is showing signs of aging and those who want to keep the signs of aging at bay for as long as possible. Fine lines, brown marks and dry spots (solar keratoses) can improve with regular AHA applications. Glycolic and salicylic acid may also prove helpful for those prone to acne.

Can I use AHAs when I am pregnant or nursing?
Since AHAs are fruit acids and do not enter the blood stream, concentrations under 15% should be safe for use during pregnancy. However, it is always best to let your physician have the final word about “any” products you use when trying to become pregnant, during pregnancy or when breast feeding.

Can teenagers use AHAs?
Teens are exposed to the sun and environmental pollutants just like anyone else. Exfoliation is quite beneficial for a teenager’s skin as removing damaged cells helps unclog pores.

Can I use AHAs in conjunction with prescription drugs?
Though it would probably be just fine to start using AHAs while taking a prescription drug, it is always best to consult your physician before changing any part of your routine when under medical attention.

Are AHAs beneficial on ethnic skin?
Sun exposure and environmental pollutants affect all skin types and colors. AHA exfoliation is quite beneficial in smoothing the skin, helping balance skin tones, as well as alleviating blotchiness. Irritation, however, can cause hyperpigmentation in some darker skin tones and the skin of those who are of Asian, Indian or Spanish decent is more susceptible to irritation. Taking things a bit slower and gradually building up to a higher percentage AHA should yield the desired results.

Can people who have skin conditions such as roseacea, psoriasis and acne use products that contain AHAs?
Though many people use AHA products to help with various skin conditions, it is recommended that you consult with your physician about your particular skin care needs if you have one of these or other skin care conditions.

Can men use products containing AHAs?
Alpha hydroxy acids are not just for women. Men love using AHAs. Not only do AHAs reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and even skin tones, they also make skin softer, smoother and less dehydrated. Men also find that AHAs help them avoid the occurrence of tiny shaving bumps and actually make shaving easier.

How do AHAs work?
With time and sun exposure there is a gradual slow-down in the rate at which old cells leave the surface of the skin and are replaced by newer cells. This results in a surface layer of dead skin cells that leaves skin looking tired, dull, and rough - anything but glowing. It is scientifically proven that alpha hydroxy acids bring back the skin’s healthy appearance by loosening the glue-like substance that holds the dead skin cells to the skin’s surface and to each other, allowing the dead skin to peel away. The skin underneath has a fresher, healthier look with a more even color and texture. At higher concentrations and with long-term use, AHAs may also affect the deeper layers of the skin allowing collagen and elastin to regenerate making fine lines much less obvious.

What do AHAs do for the skin?
* AHAs exfoliate, increase the thickness of skin & encourage new collagen formation. While it is true that AHAs exfoliate, contributing to softer more even-toned skin, the clinical effects of AHAs in lessening the appearance of wrinkles and sun damage are in part due to increased skin thickness and new collagen formation.

* AHAs treat a number of skin conditions. AHAs are well known for the treatment of various dermatological conditions including acne, dry skin, clogged pores, hyperpigmentation (brown/dark spot or blotches) and irregular pigmentation (uneven skin tone) associated with pregnancy, hormonal changes and the use of birth control pills, among other things.

* AHAs give visible results against the appearance of lines, creases, wrinkles & sun damage. Used in a daily skin care regime, AHAs will reduce and improve the visual signs of aging and sun damage. The appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pore size will be reduced; skin’s texture will be smoothed; clarity, firmness, and even skin tone will emerge. An all-over healthy glow, radiance, suppleness and smoothness will appear.

How do can I know which AHA is right for my skin?
Selecting the appropriate AHA is very important depending on the condition and needs of your skin. Some AHAs are best for moisturizing, others work better to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and still others are better for breakouts:

* Glycolic Acid - With the smallest molecular structure of all AHAs, Glycolic Acid most easily penetrates the skin’s surface to remove excess cells and help moisture retention in the surface layers. Glycolic AHA is widely recommended by dermatologist as the best choice for use in skin treatment products, particularly anti-wrinkle and acne products.

* Lactic Acid - The molecular structure of Lactic Acid is larger and does not penetrate the skin as well as Glycolic Acid. Though not as effective in skin treatment products, Lactic Acid, has the best humectant (moisturizing) properties making it an excellent choice for facial and body moisturizers.

* Citric Acid - Most often used in cosmetics in a 2-3% concentration and principally for the purpose of adjusting the product’s pH.

* Tartaric Acid - Is quite strong and is normally used only in AHA skin care blends.

* Malic Acid - Has moisturizing properties but is not as moisturizing as Lactic Acid.

* Mandelic Acid - Has a large molecular structure. Generally used in moisturizers or blended together with other AHAs. Not widely used in the cosmetic industry but is often found in oral drugs.

I am most interested in using AHAs to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. What should I look for in an AHA product to achieve the results I am hoping for?
The three most important aspects of an effective alpha hydroxy acid product are:

* TYPE OF AHA - Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of the AHA family and is, therefore, more easily and optimally absorbed into the skin.

* PERCENTAGE OF AHA - To be an effective exfoliant and to speed cell regeneration, the percentage of AHA in a product should be 8% and above. Products containing 15% and above should be administered by a licensed aesthetician, physician or nurse.

* OVERALL pH LEVEL - The optimum pH for exfoliation and cell renewal stimulation is about 4.0. At higher pH levels little (if any) exfoliation occurs, resulting in the product behaving more like moisturizers than an exfoliant. Levels much below 3.5 would be very irritating.

NOTE: The percentage of AHA and the overall pH level of the product are equal in importance to achieving desired results. A higher concentration of AHA does not mean it is more effective unless the proper pH is present. This relationship between the strength of the AHA and the pH level cannot be overestimated. It is for these reasons that an alpha hydroxy acid preparation sold to the public should be labeled with not only the identity and percentage of the AHA used, but also with the pH level.

What is difference in the AHA product that costs $100.00 versus the $20.00 product?
The price of an AHA product (or any skin care product for that matter) does not in any way indicate that it is a superior product or that it is even as effective as the less expensive one. AHA products should be chosen solely on the basis of (1) Type of AHA, (2) Percentage of AHA (3) Overall pH level. In many cases, more expensive simply means more expensive.

Should I use only products from one brand?
Though it is not absolutely necessary to purchase all products from one brand, it is imperative to know the effects of each product on your skin in conjunction with other products. When using an AHA treatment product, it is very important that your cleanser leaves your skin pH balanced to avoid irritation and residue free, giving the AHA product the best chance to do its job. Any products that you use after applying the AHA treatment product should be non-irritating. Sometimes, it is just easier and safer to use all products within one brand as they have probably been formulated to work best together as a routine, eliminating further research on your part.

I didn’t do the recommended patch test and my face is burning and itching? What is the problem and what can I do to relieve it?
Burning and itching can indicate an intolerance to the AHAs or to any other ingredient in the product you used. First, make sure you rinse thoroughly with cool, clear water and apply cold compresses to ease the burning sensation if needed. Later, when the burning is less prevalent, apply a light moisturizer. You may experience some peeling for the next week or so but a good moisturizer will help you through this period. Allergic reactions are normally accompanied by burning and itching, possibly a rash or some level of swelling. In addition to rinsing and applying cold compresses, you may need to use an over-the-counter cortisone cream (available at any drugstore.) An antihistamine should also help relieve the itching. Severe allergic reactions may require a visit to your physician.

I really want to use get the benefits of using AHAs but my skin is so sensitive. How can I overcome the sensitivities and get started on an regime?
Try starting out slowly. Instead of applying AHAs morning and evening, try applying only once a day or every other day. For the first few weeks, you might even try mixing a small amount of your AHA product and a moisturizer in the palm of your hand (not in the container) to dilute it a bit. Then over a period of time, use more AHA product and less moisturizer until your skin becomes accustomed to the full strength AHA.

I thought AHAs were supposed to make my skin look softer and smoother but since I started using them about a week ago, my skin seems drier than ever.
During the first few weeks after starting to use products containing AHAs, your skin may look drier than normal. You may even experience flaking and rough areas. Put simply, your skin is exfoliating. Depending on your skin type and condition, the process of exfoliation can take a few days and up to six weeks. The process can be slight to extremely visible. Use a very good moisturizer during the initial stages of exfoliation and remember that good things come to those who wait.

Every time I try to use a product containing AHAs, I break out. Is this normal?
First, make sure that what you are experiencing is a blemish, not a rash. A rash indicates an allergic reaction, whether it be to the AHAs, a change in detergent, something you ate, etc. However, the appearance of a few blemishes when changing skin care or cosmetic products is not uncommon and nothing to be concerned about. Particularly in the case of adding an AHA to your skin care routine, a few blemishes are quite normal as the bond holding the surface dead skin is broken and impurities in the pores begin to be released. Stay the course and don’t pick at those blemishes. In a few weeks, your skin will be better than you ever believed possible.

I am getting married in a month and I want my skin to look its very best. Can you tell me how to get started on your AHA products?
I understand that you want your skin to be absolutely radiant on your big day but this is not the time for you to start on a new skin care routine. Though AHAs do improve skin tone, making skin look radiant, it is never advisable to change any products in your routine a few weeks before a “big event.” Since AHAs exfoliate the skin, you may have some peeling and dryness and possibly even a few blemishes for the first few weeks. Just like exercise, it takes time to improve the appearance of your skin. Remember, a caterpillar doesn’t become a butterfly overnight. My suggestion is WAIT until after the honeymoon and then get started so your skin will look great before your first anniversary.

Do I need a moisturizer no matter what my skin type is?
No, everyone does not need a moisturizer.

Can too much moisture cause problems for the skin?
Yes. Moisturizers are great for someone with dry skin. If you have oily or combination skin or if your skin is prone to blemishes or blackhead, lotion or cream based moisturizers can cause problems.

What can I do to reduce the signs of aging on the skin on my neck, chest and other body parts?
Good skin care does not stop at the face and aging can sometimes be even more revealing from the neck down. This is especially true for those of us didn’t protect our bodies from sun exposure. Whatever you use on your face, continue it down onto these areas of your body as well. However, the skin on these areas may be dry even if the skin on your face is oily in which case you will need to add an additional moisturizer to your body care routine.

As a woman of color, should my skin care regime be different than those of Caucasian women?
No. All skin, no matter your ethnicity, needs to be gently cleansed, exfoliated, and moisturized in dry areas. It is equally as important for a woman, man or child of color to wear sunscreen with an SPF 15 or greater that protects against both UVA & UVB rays.

How do I know what my skin type is?
Remember that skin types can change depending on the season, hormones and stress. Here is a simple way to determine the skin type you currently have. Between three and four hours after you’ve washed your face and before you have applied any skin care products or makeup, take a good look in the mirror.

* NORMAL SKIN - Entire face looks smooth, fresh and slightly matte

* DRY SKIN - Entire face looks matte and dry or taut

* OILY SKIN - There are areas all over your face that are noticeably shiny

* COMBINATION SKIN - Some areas of your face look shiny and some look matte

* ACNE PRONE SKIN - Some areas of your skin occasionally break out with blemishes. It is important to note that Problem-Prone skin is not solely a problem of people who have oily or combination skin. Those who have normal and dry skin can equally suffer with blemishes and blackheads.

Is Propylene Glycol really an industrial anti-freeze?
Propylene Glycol is a humectant and delivery agent used extensively in cosmetics and skin care products. There are websites and spam e-mails stating that propylene glycol is really industrial anti-freeze and the major ingredient in brake fluid and hydraulic fluids. They further state that the MSDS on this ingredient warns against skin contact. It is important to understand that MSDS sheets are referring to 100% concentrations of a substance (water and salt have frightening comments regarding their safety according to their MSDS). Propylene glycol is used in cosmetics only in the smallest amounts to keep products from melting in high heats or freezing in low temperatures. It also helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. In the minute amounts used in cosmetics and skin care, the ingredient is absolutley nothing that should arise even the smallest concern. According to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health Services Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, "studies have not shown these chemicals (propylene glycol or other glycols as used in cosmetics) to by carcinogens" (Source:http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/).

Do I need to use a moisturizer when I am using AHAs?
you are experiencing dryness, tightness and/or peeling, you will probably want to include a moisturizer in your skin care routine. Once those conditions subside, you may find that you no longer need an additional moisturizer.

Since sun damage is a major factor in the premature aging of skin, you need to wear a sunscreen whether or not you use AHAs. However, use of a sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher during sun exposure is a must when using alpha hydroxy acids and for a week after you discontinue use of products containing them. Remember, AHAs reveal younger, fresher skin cells and they are more vulnerable than the old dead skin cells that were glued to the top of the skin before you started using AHAs.

Retinol is another name for the vitamin A molecule

Is Retinol Good for My Skin?
Retinol works as a cell-communicating ingredient. It actually tells the skin cell to behave and look like a more normal, younger cell.

Is Prescription Retinol Better for My Skin than the Over-the-Counter version?
All forms are excellent for preventing and improving signs of aging. Prescription Retinols are stronger and work faster. Over-the-Counter Retinols takes longer to work. Prescription Retinols pose a greater a risk of irritation than the over-the-counter versions.

How often should I use Retinol?
Some people use it once a day, every day. Other people use it only 2-3 per week. You will just have to experiment a bit to see what works best for you.

Can I apply Retinol on the Eye Area?
You can use Retinol under the eyes but never on the eyelids.

Can I use Retinol in My AHA Regime?
Yes, you certainly can. We recommend that you use the AHAs during the day and the Retinol in the evening.

Can I use Retinol when I am pregnant or nursing?
Yes. Though doctors advise against using a prescription retinoid when you're pregnant or nursing, a less potent over-the-counter retinol product like our Retinol ResQ is considered safe. (Retinol, like such prescription retinoids as Retin-A and Tazorac, helps brighten and smooth the skin and, over time, can encourage collagen growth.) Of course, your physician will have the final call on any of the products you use while pregnant or nursing.